Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse
Many people mistakenly believe that growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is easier than growing outdoors. There are a number of rules you need to follow to get good yields of greenhouse tomatoes. But if everything is done correctly, indoors the same variety will yield 2 times more yield than outdoors.
Tatiana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
Growing vegetables in a greenhouse is more costly and more difficult than growing vegetables in an open field. Not even worth mentioning the cost of the greenhouse itself! The factors that complicate the work include the fact that in a closed room, the spread of infection or pest occurs much faster.
Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse
Varieties of covered structures
As for the design features, there are greenhouses-arches and greenhouses-houses. Each design has its own advantages and disadvantages. In an arched design, there is more sunlight throughout the day. And since tomatoes are a light-loving vegetable crop, experts recommend giving preference to arched structures.
Before proceeding to the description of the process of growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, let's say that greenhouses can be made of different materials. Most often, structures are made of film or polycarbonate. The easiest way to organize the appropriate conditions for tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse. If we are talking about film coverings, it is recommended to lay 2 layers of film, leaving a distance of 3-5 cm between them. After the air temperature rises to 18-20 ° C and the threat of frost has passed, one layer of the film is removed.
The choice of planting material
In order to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse made of film or polycarbonate to give the desired result, you need to choose the right vegetable variety. Since there is no access to closed structures for insects pollinating plants, self-pollinating hybrids should be preferred.
Also, before buying seeds, you should pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations. Today there are many varieties available for indoor cultivation. The hybrid varieties "Evpator", "Palenka", "La-la-fa", "Podarok", "Cherry", "Aksinya", "Flamenco" have shown themselves well.
Pay attention to the height of the bush. If there is little space in the greenhouse, give preference to undersized or medium-sized plants. If the height of the greenhouse is 1.5-2 m, tall bushes can be grown.
Tatiana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
As a rule, only tall (indeterminate) tomato varieties are grown in greenhouses. This is done in order to use not only the area, but also the entire volume of protected soil. Even if vegetables are grown not for sale, but for personal consumption, you always want the costs of installing a greenhouse to quickly pay off.Therefore, cultivars for greenhouses are chosen for the intensive type, with potentially high yields and an extended harvest period. These requirements are not met by varieties, but by modern tomato hybrids F1.
Growing stages
Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse can be conditionally divided into 5 stages:
- greenhouse preparation;
- soil preparation;
- preparation of seedlings for planting;
- transplanting;
- plant care.
Each of the stages is important, so let's look at them separately.
Greenhouse preparation
Since the planting of seedlings for the greenhouse is carried out quite early, they begin to prepare the covered structure in the fall. In order for the tomatoes in the greenhouse to grow healthy and strong, it is constantly ventilated. For this, the greenhouse must have vents. An important point is the location of the vents. Do not place them on one side of the structure. You should also provide for the presence of 2-3 vents in the roof of the greenhouse. When organizing the ventilation system, it is necessary to ensure that the plants are not in a draft, which negatively affects the yield of the vegetable crop.
It is necessary to disinfect the structure. If there is mold in an indoor polycarbonate room, it must be removed before planting seedlings.
Tatiana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
In protected ground conditions, there is a rapid accumulation of pathogenic microflora and pests, for which there is simply "greenhouse conditions". Therefore, annual disinfection of the greenhouse premises is a guarantee of the health of your plants and a good harvest. One of the quickest ways to disinfect a greenhouse is to use a sulfur checker. Before this, the greenhouse is cleaned of plant residues, the saber is lit, and the greenhouse is tightly closed.
Soil preparation
If last year the plants were massively susceptible to any disease, it is advisable to remove the top layer of soil (10-12 cm), which contains bacteria and fungal spores.
Tomatoes cannot be grown in the same place every year. If there are several greenhouses on the backyard, it is advisable not to plant crops susceptible to the same diseases in the same indoor area for 2 years in a row. If this is not possible, the planting site for garden crops is changed annually.
Soil disinfection and fertilization
Tomatoes are planted in prepared soil
Soil disinfection can be done in the fall, but experts recommend doing this in the spring.
For disinfection of the earth, a warm solution of copper sulfate is used (for 10 liters, 1 tablespoon of powder is enough). Store-bought products are an alternative to copper sulfate. The soil is disinfected 10-12 days before the planting of the strengthened bushes.
A few days after disinfection of the soil, weeds are removed and fertilizers are applied. In fertile soils, it is enough to add 2-3 kg of humus per 1 sq. m. If the soils are poor, the rate of humus is doubled and 200-250 g of charcoal is additionally introduced.
Tatiana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
A good effect is given by the use of phytosporin, produced in the form of a brown paste, for soil disinfection. This tool not only eliminates pathogens of a number of diseases, but also improves the microflora of the soil.
Seedling beds
It remains to make the beds. The planting pattern varies, depending on the variety of tomatoes. If we talk about the standard scheme, then there should be 40-60 cm of space between the plants. The row spacing is 50 cm. The correct planting scheme for a particular variety is indicated on the seed package. It is also worth taking into account the availability of free space in the greenhouse.
Arrange the beds so that each bush has free access. Immediately consider the layout of the trellis or other support. The depth of the holes is 20 cm for short and medium-sized varieties and 30 cm for tall varieties of tomatoes.
Proper soil preparation involves breaking it into beds 7-10 days before planting seedlings.When growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate or film greenhouse, seedlings are planted after May 6. At this time, the earth is not yet warmed up enough. If you make beds in advance, the soil will warm up faster. You can also pour hot water into the holes 1-2 days before planting the seedlings.
If cucumbers are grown together with tomatoes, the greenhouse is divided into 2 parts using a film: tomatoes need a lower air temperature than cucumbers. Also, these vegetable crops have different requirements for ventilation and air humidity.
Tatiana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
It is possible to plant tomato seedlings in the ground (open or sheltered) when its temperature is above +10 degrees. To speed up the heating of the soil in the greenhouse, you can cover the ridges with black non-woven material.
Preparing seedlings for planting
Regardless of whether tomatoes are grown in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate or film, the seedlings are hardened.
For hardening, 14 days before planting, the seedlings are taken out into the street, leaving there for no more than 2-3 hours. The time is gradually increased to 4-6 hours. If the outside air temperature exceeds 10 ° C, then the vents are left open overnight.
6 days before planting, the plant is treated for pests and diseases. It can be treated with a weakly concentrated boric acid solution. 2-3 days before planting the plants in the ground, 2-3 lower leaves are cut off. This is done so that the bush takes root faster in a new place. Also, the removal of the lower leaf plates contributes to the rapid formation of the ovary.
Only plants with a well-developed root system and a thick stem should be planted in a permanent place.
Transplanting
Tomatoes should be planted in a polycarbonate or film greenhouse either in the evening or on a cloudy day. Pre-made holes are watered with warm water. Seedlings are transplanted with a root ball of earth. Damaged leaves are removed before planting.
It is not recommended to apply fertilizers to the holes. An excessive amount of minerals, especially nitrogen, leads to the formation of lush tops and a thick stem, and an excess of fertilizers negatively affects the yield.
The plants laid in the holes are covered with earth. Plants are not watered immediately after planting in the ground. For 6-10 days, the plants do not feel a lack of moisture. During this time, the bushes will take root in a new place and adapt to the climatic conditions of the greenhouse.
After planting, each plant is examined. All leaf plates touching the soil are removed. Leaves are best removed in the morning.
Only plants with a height of at least 25 cm are transplanted.
Planting overgrown seedlings
The root should not be buried
When planting an overgrown root, they are in no hurry to deepen: this negatively affects the development of the bush. An additional hole is dug in the prepared hole, the height of which corresponds to the height of the basal earthen coma. The overgrown bush is placed in a hole and only a new one is buried, the old one is left open. After 10-12 days, provided that the seedlings have taken root, the old hole is buried.
Seedling care
To get a good harvest, it is important to properly care for the plantings.
Watering
Tomatoes in the greenhouse are watered with water, the temperature of which varies from 20 ° C to 22 ° C. Vegetable crops require different amounts of moisture at different stages of growth. So, for example, flowering plants feel the greatest need for water. Watering during this period is carried out at least 2 times every 8 days. Moreover, for 1 sq. m of territory requires at least 10 liters of liquid. During the growth period, the number of irrigations remains the same, but per 1 sq. m is enough 5 liters of water. After fruit formation, the plant needs a minimum amount of moisture. If the summer is rainy, you can completely abandon watering. If there is natural precipitation, it is enough to water the bushes every 7 days.
Plants are watered at the root.When watering the entire bush as a whole, the likelihood of late blight increases significantly. It is recommended to water the vegetable crop in the morning. In the evening, condensation forms in closed structures, which accumulates on fruits and leaf plates, which leads to the appearance of fungal diseases.
Airing and temperature control
When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, the temperature and humidity levels are closely monitored. The vents are opened for ventilation at least 2 times every day. In warm weather, they do not need to be closed during the day. If the temperature outside is below 18 ° C, the vents should be closed after 30-40 minutes. To avoid the formation of condensation, it is imperative to ventilate indoor structures 1.5-2 hours after watering the plants.
Especially carefully you need to ventilate the premises during the flowering of the vegetable crop. Wet pollen does not get into the pistil. With improper ventilation of a polycarbonate or film greenhouse, pollination of flowers does not occur and, accordingly, ovaries do not form.
Caring for tomatoes in greenhouses involves observing the temperature regime. In sunlight, the air temperature should vary within 24-26 ° С, and in cloudy - 18-20 ° С. The night temperature should be 16 ° C. Deviations of 1-2 ° are allowed.
Garter
Caring for tomatoes in a polycarbonate or film greenhouse involves tying bushes. All varieties need a garter, except for undersized ones, but if a large number of fruits have formed on a undersized bush, it is also recommended to tie it up. You can use any available tools or supports made at home from wood or metal.
For medium-sized and tall varieties, it is best to build a trellis that does not take up much space in the garden. It is not difficult to build it with your own hands: we install vertical supports at the ends of the garden bed, between them we lay a horizontal support, from which ropes go down to each bush, for the garter we choose a soft material that will not cause mechanical damage to the plants.
Formation
Regardless of whether we grow tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse or outdoors, they need to be shaped. Only a few standard varieties of tomatoes do not need to be formed. As for the formation of bushes, there is no single scheme. Depending on the variety, bushes can be formed into one or more stems. On the package with seeds there are recommendations regarding the formation of bushes.
Tall tomato varieties for greenhouses are usually formed into 2 stems. The first time the stepsons are removed, after the seedlings take root in a new place (12-16 days). Leave the strongest stepson. After 11 days, stepchildren are re-removed at a distance of 7 cm from the stem, leaving the one that is closest to the first flower brush, but located below it. All lateral stepchildren that move away from the stems are removed in the future. Each stem should have no more than 4 flower clusters. If you do not remove the extra flower brushes, the fruits will be small.
Remove extra shoots carefully. It is advisable to use a sharp garden tool when doing this.
Fertilization
Plants need feeding
Growing tomatoes in a film greenhouse or from polycarbonate involves the introduction of fertilizers into the soil. How much top dressing should be done by the farmer, but experts recommend feeding the vegetable crop 4 times per season. A deficiency, like an excess of fertilizers, has an equally negative effect on yields.
Fertilization chart
- The first time fertilization is applied within 3 weeks after planting. In this case, nitrophosphate and mullein are used. To prepare 10 liters of the nutrient mixture, take 500 ml of mullein and 1 tbsp. l. nitrophosphate. 1 liter of the resulting mixture is poured under each bush.
- The second time the plants are fed after 9 days. To prepare 10 liters of nutritional composition, take 1 tsp.potassium sulfate and 4 tsp. complex fertilizer. The resulting mixture is applied at the rate of 5 liters for 3-4 plants.
- The next feeding is done in 11-13 days. Fertilizer is prepared from 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. l. wood ash, which is diluted in 10 liters of water. At least 6 liters of the nutrient mixture are poured onto 3-4 plants.
- In order to harvest a good harvest when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, the fourth dressing is done when the tomatoes are bearing fruit. To prepare 10 liters of the nutrient mixture, take 1 tbsp. l. sodium humate, 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate. 3-4 bushes should have 5 liters of fertilizer.
Growing tomatoes in a heated greenhouse
Tomatoes can be grown in a heated structure all year round. After harvesting, you should give the land a little rest. Do not forget about fertilizing the soil. The best option is green manure. They enrich the soil better than any other organic fertilizer.
It is important to correctly position the heated greenhouse on the site. In winter, the daylight hours are short, so the structure is placed so that it is maximally illuminated by the sun. You can't do without additional lighting here. Lamps are placed evenly throughout the greenhouse, otherwise not all tomatoes will receive the right amount of light, which will negatively affect their growth and development.
Since it is difficult to evenly heat a large room, the size of heated greenhouses should be small. It is better to build several small structures on the site than one large one.
Before sowing the seeds, the profitability of this event is calculated. In a cold winter, a lot of money is spent on heating the structure. The cost price of tomatoes will ultimately turn out to be much higher than the market one.
Prevention and treatment
Greenhouse plants are sometimes subject to disease and pest attacks.
Diseases
Greenhouse plants are subject to the same diseases as outdoor tomatoes. Fungal diseases are most often manifested. This is due to the fact that they develop well in a humid environment, so it is very important to monitor the humidity level and ventilate the covered structure in a timely manner, especially if the weather is hot outside. When growing tomatoes in heated structures, ventilation should be done even in winter. True, at this time of the year, you should ventilate the room for no more than 15-20 minutes. If the weather is warm in winter, you can ventilate the room for 40 minutes.
Also, do not forget about preventive treatments for tomatoes from the most common diseases. Weeding of the beds also belongs to preventive measures. The neighborhood of tomatoes with weeds, attacked by powdery mildew, mosaic and other fungal diseases, is unacceptable.
Pests
Examine the plants
Some pests attack tomatoes during the flowering period, some during the fruiting period. And a spider mite, for example, can attack even recently planted seedlings, so the plants need to be constantly examined.
Ants are also dangerous pests. They do not harm tomato bushes, but they attract aphids to the beds. Getting rid of ants is sometimes quite difficult: you can use store products, or you can prepare your own products from sugar, boric acid, honey and water. It is best to lay out such a treat in plastic bottle lids.
Other growing problems
It is necessary to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, observing all the norms of agricultural technology. For example, if you do not huddle a vegetable crop in a timely manner, its root system will be located close to the surface of the earth. And this will negatively affect the yield. Let's take a look at some of the challenges a grower may face when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse.
Falling flowers
Not always, at the end of the flowering period, an ovary is formed on the bushes. Flowers fall for several reasons. For example, due to high humidity, pollination of inflorescences may not occur.
Not all hybrids are self-pollinating. If tomatoes are not self-pollinating, ensure that there are insects that pollinate vegetables. You can also pollinate tomatoes yourself. To do this, you need a soft-bristled brush. Use a brush to gently transfer pollen from the stamens to the pistils. Also, the reason for the fall of flowers can be waterlogging of the soil or an excess of nitrogen.
Tatiana Orlova (Candidate of Agricultural Sciences):
One of the common causes of flowers and ovaries falling off is the high temperature in the greenhouse at this time. The optimum temperature for the growth and development of tomato is + 22-27 degrees. At temperatures above +30 degrees, pollen in flowers becomes sterile, i.e. not capable of pollination. Non-pollinated flowers fall off. If the temperature rises even higher - up to +35 degrees, the ovary will begin to crumble.
Wilting leaves
Fungal and bacterial diseases are often the cause of leaf wilting. If the plant is healthy, the wilting of the leaf blades occurs due to a lack or excess of moisture.
During the fruiting period, the fruits wither along with the leaves. If you do not take action in a timely manner, you can lose several kilograms of the crop.
Weak ovary formation
All varietal tomatoes are high yielding, so poor ovary formation indicates a problem. Most often, the ovary does not form when the tomatoes are overheated. In June and July, namely during this period, the flowering of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties occurs, they monitor the temperature regime in the covered structure.
Weak ovary formation may also be due to insufficient lighting or inadequate watering. With an excessive amount of moisture, the root system rots, which leads to the absence of an ovary. With a shortage, the plant begins to dry out.
The last reason for the absence of an ovary is overfeeding the plants with fertilizers. Even if it turned out to grow bushes with a thick stem and large leaves, this does not mean that the plant is healthy. Flowers on such bushes, if they appear, then in small quantities.
Poor fruit development on the second flower cluster
If the first brush has given a good harvest, the fruits are poured onto the second very slowly, which means that the plant does not have enough strength. You can save the situation by plucking the crop from the first flower cluster in the technical maturity phase. On the windowsill, such fruits will ripen in a few days.
After harvesting, the soil is watered from the first flower clusters and the temperature is lowered. The optimum temperature for fruit ripening is 17 ° C. The vents are left open at night. As a rule, the air temperature in August and September (the period of fruit ripening) does not drop below 17 ° C.
You can also harvest subsequent brushes at the stage of technical maturity. Once ripe, the tomatoes are just as tasty and sweet as those ripe in the garden.
Conclusion
We figured out how to grow tomatoes in a polycarbonate or film greenhouse. The described technology is suitable for growing tomatoes in small household plots. The industrial cultivation of this vegetable crop for sale is associated with a number of difficulties. It is not possible to manually process large-scale plantings, so you have to use specialized equipment, so you need to increase the number of preventive treatments.
